According to Jim Coon the president of the "Ocean Tourism Coalition" and co-owner of Trilogy Excursions there are 42 commercial permits for tour operators to take approximately 1,000 visitors to Molokini each day," almost all in the morning.
So, each morning the tour boats head out of harbors in Ma'alaea and Kihei towards Molokini. Each guest has paid upwards of $100 to visit this Marine Reserve and often for a follow on destination. The morning tours are usually about 5 hours in length.
They've been promised what one site calls, "one of the most popular and exotic snorkel and diving sites in the entire world" and about which another says, "Without question, the Molokini crater tops the list of the world's best destinations for snorkeling and scuba diving.
According to some Maui locals I've talked to, the crater's reef is dying and the fish count is dwindling. At this point it's important to make a distinction between the inside of the crater and the outside. Nearly all tour boats anchor inside the crater and this is the area most affected. By all accounts the diving on the outside wall remains spectacular.
It's been a few years since I've made the trip, so I decided to have another look. Not wanting to part with $100, I chose an afternoon trip for $37. (A word of caution here, most afternoon Molokini trips go elsewhere because of the winds. I waited for a calm day and then asked the crew in advance where we would be going.)
On the way over we were offered a wet suit top rental for $10. My advice is to take it and you'll be able to spend more time in the water snorkeling. We were also offered SNUBA (like SCUBA, but you're fed air from the surface by a hose) for $60. Since I'm a certified diver I passed on this, but many would find it a great experience.
My Impression of Molokini Crater. During my afternoon visit there was only one other boat anchored in the crater, so crowds were not a problem. My impression was that the reef looked tired. The colors were muted and there weren't that many fish. I spent a full hour in the water exploring back and forth along the reef and floating over some of the deeper areas. Other than a few angel fish and a needle fish there wasn't much to see.
To be fair, I've talked to people who've seen turtles, rays and sharks in the crater recently, so perhaps I was just there at a bad time. But I also have to agree with those who feel the crater is suffering from overuse. You just can't have nearly a 1000 people a day visiting a site and not affect it.
Must See or Overrated? Molokini crater is overrated as a snorkel location, but surprisingly, looking at the experience as a whole, the morning Molokini trips are a must do, at least once anyway. The trips are packaged for your enjoyment and safety and are well worth the $100 cost. Five hours on and in the water, seeing things you've probably never seen before, and a meal included, can be unforgettable.
Each boat offers a different experience. In an upcoming article we'll help you pick the one best for you.
Have you been to Molokini? Why not tell us about your experience?
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