Ho'okipa Beach Park

Ho'okipa is best known as one of the top spots in the world for windsurfing. Major world class competitions are held here each year. The beach is also a great spot for surfing. Because of high surf and strong currents surfing and windsurfing should be limited to experts.

By mutual understanding surfers have the beach in the morning and windsurfers use it in the afternoon. The beach is self policed by each group and only experts will be allowed in the water.

Ho'okipa is located at mile marker #9 on the Hana Highway (36). We suggest visitors stop at the lookout point just past the beach for spectacular views of the beach and surf.

Amenities

• No lifeguard
• Restrooms
• Showers
• 3 Picnic pavilions
• 200 parking places

Volunteering On Vacation

Our hats off to Sheila at govisithawaii.com for suggesting "Volunteering On Vacation."

We enjoy visiting Maui so much, that it seemed like time to "give something back." We looked around a little and found Pacific Whale Foundation's "Volunteering On Vacation" program. As Brook, the manager of the program explained, "Pacific Whale Foundation helps provide volunteers for a number of other Maui organizations." These organizations in turn work to protect Maui's fragile ecosystem, cultural sites and marine life.

We chose the simplest project, a "beach cleanup." They provided a large trash bag, a pair of gloves and a sheet to record what's found. We got to pick the beach.

We chose a small section of Ma'alaea Beach. Here's what we cleaned up in a 150 foot section of beach:

• 32 cigarette butts.
• 65 Pieces of plastic
• 1 Piece of netting
• 6 Pieces of fishing line or gear
• 2 Pieces of rope
• 1 Syringe with needle attached
• 1 Condom
• 2 Metal beverage cans
• 10 Glass beverage bottles
• 2 Pieces of styrofoam
• 2 Six pack rings
• 22 Plastic bags
• And more paper and fast food cups and wrappers than we could count.

We could have easily filled another bag in this same spot.

For our efforts Pacific Whale Foundation gave us two really cool tee-shirts and we got the satisfaction of knowing we'd done a little bit to help clean-up paradise.

Has anyone else tried "Volunteering On Vacation?" Why not tell us about your experience?

Maui Airports

Convienent Airline Service Makes Maui an Easy Travel Destination

Maui has two airports serviced by commercial airlines. Maui’s main airport is located at Kahului. All direct flights from North America, Asia, most connecting flights, and inter island flights arrive here. The other, Kapalua-West Maui Airport, is served by smaller commuter style aircraft. If you’re staying in the Kaanapali-Kapalua area and your mainland flight connects in Honolulu, this can be a convenient alternative. The State of Hawaii’s official website for the airports is here.

Kahului Airport

The vast majority of Maui visitors arrive in Kahului. On the northern edge of the isthmus connecting Maui’s mountains, Kahului is Maui’s commercial center. Along with the airport, Maui’s seaport, and most larger retail stores are located here. Kahului (airport code “ogg”) is a small, but modern airport. Jetways are used to de-plane passengers from larger aircraft. Moving walkways are provided in some areas of the terminal to help speed you on your way. Numerous clean restrooms are located throughout. Just follow the signs towards luggage claim located downstairs near the center of the terminal building.

Expect to wait 30 - 45 minutes for your luggage. There’s a staffed visitor’s information booth in the luggage claim area. These friendly folks are happy to provide you with maps and other useful information, all free. After you’ve collected your luggage proceed outside to the sidewalk. Rental cars are to the right.

When departing be sure to submit all checked luggage for agricultural inspection before going to airline check-in. A list of prohibited items can be found here. There are several well marked inspection stations in the departures area. Agricultural inspection for carry-on luggage is preformed after the TSA security check point.

Lines at the airline counters and the TSA security check point can be long so allow plenty of time. We’ve also noticed the TSA personnel here can be a bit snippy from time to time. So, as you go through security be sure to have your ID’s and boarding passes out, your shoe’s off, your laptops in a separate bin, your liquids in small containers and in a quart size ziplock bag, and a smile on your face. TSA’s airport security requirements are here.

Kapalua-West Maui Airport

Kapalua-West Maui airport is served by smaller commuter type aircraft. Only daytime service is permitted. Rental car counters are available at the airport.

If you’re making connections in Honolulu to Maui and you’re staying in West Maui this can be a convenient alternative. Otherwise you’re much better off flying into Kahului. You avoid the connection time in Honolulu, there are more rental car choices, and the drive to West Maui is beautiful and only takes 45 minutes or so.

Hanakao'o Beach Park (Canoe Beach)

Commonly known as Canoe Beach, Hanakao'o Beach Park is located at the south end of Maui's Ka'anapali Beach. Not only does the name change as you move south from Ka'anapali Beach, but the feel of the beach changes. It's much more kicked back and unhurried. Gone are the hotels, shops and restaurants. Few visitors come here.

The beach gets its nickname from the many outrigger canoes on the beach here. Outrigger canoe racing is a popular sport on Maui and many of the local canoe clubs launch from this beach.

The beach is also a good spot to launch sea kayaks, for sunning and for swimming. There is a lifeguard on duty during the day.

Amenities

• Swimming, Lifeguard on duty
• 2 uncovered picnic tables, 6 barbecue grills, 12 covered picnic pavilions
• 33 paved parking spaces, 20 spaces in gravel lot
• Public Restrooms (ADA)
• 2 outdoor showers

Directions: Between mile markers 23 and 24 on the Honoapiilani Highway (hwy 30) north of Lahaina.

Photo Credit: rlongmsw at flickr

Atlantis Submarines Maui

Atlantis Submarines let you explore Maui's undersea world without ever getting wet. The tour sub takes up to 48 passengers to depths in excess of 100' in dry air conditioned comfort. There you'll come face to face with spectacular sealife and get a view of the sunken Carthaginian II, a replica of a 19th century whaling vessel intentionally sunk to create an artificial reef.

Atlantis operates daily from Lahaina Harbor and dives each hour from 9:00 am till 2:00 pm. Total time for the tour is 1 hour and 45 minutes including the boat ride from the harbor to the sub and back. Total time underwater is about 45 minutes. Cost is $89 per person.

Atlantis also operates submarine tours from Waikiki and Kona as well as the Caribbean and Guam.

Have you ever taken a tour on Atlantis Submarines? Why not tell us about your experience by leaving a comment below?

Atlantis Submarines Website

Baby Hawksbill Turtle Says, "Please Don't Run Over My Mom"

"Excuse me, but would you mind leaving the fence intact so that my mom won't get accidentally run over by a car?" That's the message on signs you'll find on the fence along North Kihei Road between Kihei and Ma‘alaea. The message is signed, "mahalo, your friend, baby hawksbill."

We've been coming here for years and always thought the fence was a wind barrier to keep sand from blowing onto the highway. Au contraire, it turns out the fence was constructed to protect the highly endangered hawksbill turtle's nesting area from the dangers of the highway.

This made us wonder, what are hawksbill turtles, who built and maintains the fence, and how can we help our little friends?

The Hawksbill Turtle Not to be confused with the larger green sea turtle commonly seen in Hawai‘i, the hawksbill turtle is named for its narrow sharp beak-like mouth. Known for its beautiful and hardy exterior shell, often referred to as "tortoise shell", the species has been hunted nearly to extinction. It was exploited historically for such things that modern-day plastics and metals have replaced, and for years by the fashion industry. Found in tropical oceans around the world, the hawksbill turtle is today listed as critically endangered. There are thought to be less than 100 adult females of the species that nest in Hawai‘i- the majority of them nesting on Hawai‘i Island, with smaller nesting populations on Maui, Moloka‘i and O‘ahu.

The Fence The fence was built by by the US Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) and is maintained by USFWS and Hawaii Wildlife Fund (HWF) volunteers.

We'll let HWF explain how it came to be.

"In 1993 and 1996, two egg-laden hawksbills and numerous hatchlings were killed by cars while trying to cross North Kihei Road from the adjacent nesting beach. In response, HWF was formed. Volunteers patrolled the beaches nightly, and in 1998 a sand fence was constructed to help keep turtles off the road. This began the first systematic monitoring and research of this species on Maui. Since then, much has been learned about hawksbills' nesting, hatching and foraging behaviors." - Hawai'i Wildlife Fund

Today volunteers still work diligently to keep the fence in good repair. (And as someone who knows a little bit about fencing, I can tell you that's no easy job!) The fence not only keeps the turtles from crossing the highway, it also promotes dune restoration and discourages vehicular traffic that damages the dune ecosystem.

How Can We Help the Hawksbill? Well as our little friend said above, "leave the fence intact." While only a few turtles are involved they represent a significant portion of the nesting population in Hawai‘i. By keeping even one from being killed on the road we are contributing to the recovery of the species. And please report turtle nesting events to HWF so they can help protect the turtle hatchlings from numerous threats.

If you're interested in doing more there are a number of volunteer opportunities listed on Hawai‘i Wildlife Fund's website. Among them is the "Dawn Patrol" (coordinated by USFWS) that is simply an early morning stroll along certain beaches looking for turtle tracks. Sounds easy enough. Or, you can volunteer to watch the nests either overnight or during the day to help protect the young ones when they hatch.

For more information or to volunteer see: wildhawaii.org

Hawai‘i Wildlife Funds conservation efforts are also highlighted in this article.

Special thanks to Hannah Bernard and Cheryl King of HWF for their invaluable assistance with this article.

Photo credits: turtle sign: mauionlineguide; all others: Hawai‘i Wildlife Fund

Sightseeing - Haleakala Sunset

Maui's 10,000 foot tall dormant shield volcano Haleakala dominates the island. It is an extremely popular and easily accessible visitor destination. Watching the sunrise from Haleakala's summit has taken on mythic proportions and is indeed spectacular and popular. The National Park Service estimates that of the parks 1.4 million annual visitors, two thirds visit during the sunrise period.And sunrise from Haleakala is indeed stunning, but no less sensational and much less crowded is the sunset. At sunrise the crater can be in shadow, but at sunset the suns dwindling rays light it's walls causing it to glow eerily taking on an otherworldly appearance. If your timing is right and it's full moon, you'll also be able to watch the moon rise as the sun sets. Turning away from the crater and towards the suns setting you may see clouds above and below you painted with evenings colors.

Haleakala Sunset Advantages:

• Sunset is not as crowded. You're not standing shoulder to shoulder with hundreds of other visitors, not to mention the difficulty in finding a parking spot.
• You won't have to roll out of bed in the middle of the night to make the trek to the top before sunrise.
• The weather is usually warmer at the summit in the evening than it is in the morning. It's surprising how many people don't realize how cold it can be at the top of a 10,000 mountain at 5:00 AM, even if it is in the tropics.

Do's and Don'ts:

• Do call the National Weather Service (877-5111) for Maui's weather forecast before starting for the top.
• Don't forget a jacket, typical temperature ranges from 32 to 65 degrees F.
• Do bring your own food, none is available in the park.
• Don't forget to check your gas gage, there's no fuel available in the park.
• Do arrive early so that you can enjoy other sights and sounds of the park before sunset.
• Don't forget to bring a camera so you can carry the memories home with you.
• Do check the daily Haleakala sunrise and sunset times.

Other activities available in the park include biking, hiking, horseback riding and nature tours.

Photo credit: Carlos Pessoa

Haleakala Sunrise

Haleakala Sunrise Attracts Hundreds of Thousands of Visitors a Year

“It was unbelievable” one visitor said. “It was unbelievably cold” said another. “We never even saw the sun” said yet another. Mark Twain called it "the sublimest spectacle I ever saw." Indeed, the sunrise from atop Maui's 10,000 foot Haleakala has taken on mythic proportions. And, on a good day the mountain can live up to the hype. On a less than good day it can be, well to say the least, disappointing.

According to the National Park Service there were over 1.4 million recreational visits to Haleakala's summit in 2006. According to a 2004 Visitor Study, over two thirds of all visitors to the Haleakala Visitor Center visit during the sunrise period.

Haleakala is a dormant volcano that rises more than 28,000 feet from the seafloor, the last 2 miles of which are above the level of the sea. It last erupted around 1790. This eruption was not from the caldera at the top of the mountain, but from a cinder cone along the southern flank forming the finger of lava jutting into the ocean at La Perouse Bay.

Legend says that Haleakala was named from a clever trick the demigod Maui played on the sun. Maui’s mother complained that the sun sped by so quickly each day that her tapa cloth would not dry. Maui went to the top of the mountain and waited for the sun to rise then lassoed it, stopping it’s journey across the sky. The sun pleaded with Maui to let it go. Maui agree to let the sun go if it would slow it’s journey across the sky and make the days longer. The sun relented. In honor of this Hawaiians call the mountain Haleakala, or “house of the sun.”

If you decide to go you’re going to have to get up early to make it to the top of the mountain before sunrise. Dress warmly, bring a flashlight, and hope for good weather.

The National Park Services Haleakala Sunrise and Sunset page is here. Be sure to check out their FAQ.

Pa'ia Town

To many Pa'ia is just a jumping off point on the road to Hana. To paraphrase more than one guide we've read, "stop and have breakfast at Charley's in Pa'ia, pick up a few supplies and head off for Hana." If this is all you see of Pa'ia, then you're missing one of Maui's true treasures. Pa'ia (pronounced pah-ee-ah) started life as one of the many sugar plantation "towns" that dotted Maui in earlier times. Life was dominated by the Alexander and Baldwin sugar mill and the surrounding cane fields. After more than a century of operation the Mill closed in 2000, bringing to a close sugar's dominance of the community.

As sugars time passed other influences added to the unique flavor of the Pa'ia. Surfers came from all over the world to windsurf at nearby Ho'okipa beach and free spirits looking for a simpler, healthier lifestyle migrated to the area. Each group added their own essence to the spirit of the community.

Today Pa'ia is a mix of plantation town life, the needs of the health conscious lifestyle and the irreverent "hang loose" attitude of the surfer crowd. A mix, we dare say, you'll find nowhere else on the planet.

A wonderful blend of small shops and eateries make up the commercial area of Pa'ia. You'll find Hawaiian crafts, Indian imports, surf shops, juice bars and more, all on the same block. It's definitely an off the mall experience. To feel it for yourself you have to park your car and get out and walk around a bit. If you do you're bound to fall in love with the place.

Our favorite little shop in Pa'ia is Aloha Bead Company. It's makai (oceanside) just as you get into town from the Kahului side. You'll find beads, beads, beads and more beads. This place definitely leans towards the towns "free spirit" influence.

Pa'ia is a great place to stop as you start out on your Hana adventure, it's also a destination all it's own. Stop in, take a little time to look around, who knows what you'll find.

Maui Police Use ATVs to Patrol Beaches

Maui Police are using all-terrain vehicles to patrol some of the Islands beaches and other remote areas. Officers use them not only as crime prevention tools, but to assist the public.

According to the Maui News a special operation was carried out during spring break. Maui News quotes Capt. Jeffrey Tanoue, commander of the Kihei Patrol District as saying:

"ATVs allow officers to reach areas that normal police vehicles are unable to access... Although we are limited in resources, we have increased ATV patrols and will continue efforts to monitor and enforce criminal activities at beaches and parks in the South Maui areas."

The ATVs have also been used to transport injured persons to more accessible areas for medical attention and to check on the welfare of residents after serious storms.

We first saw them patrolling Maalaea Beach, between Kihei and Maalaea Harbor. It looked like a good fit to us. Along this beach are some pretty remote areas. It was frankly comforting to know the beach was being patrolled from time to time.

We've also got to say that the officers looked like they were having a pretty good time doing their job.

The Perfect Palm

Have you ever wondered how those perfect looking palm trees at your Maui resort or condo came to look that way? Well, we never gave it much thought either until one afternoon, while we were having lunch on the lanai, the tree trimmers showed up.

They were fascinating to watch. After strapping on spikes (the same type used by telephone linemen) and wrapping a chain attached to a safety harness around the tree, he was off the ground and at tree top in just a few seconds. Once there, a machete was used to trim the palm frawns away. It didn't look like easy work either, particularly on a hot day.

It was also interesting to watch the reactions of the guests in the area. Some helped gather the frawns into piles, others formed groups and discussed amongst themselves the best methods for tree trimming and a few left in a huff because their perfect afternoon in the sun had been disturbed.

Personally our hats off to them. Without their effort our few days in paradise just wouldn't be so perfect. By the way, if you need a good tree trimmer on Maui just click on the image above, the company's name and address are on the back of the shirt.

Black Sand Beach Makena (Oneuli Beach)

Less known than it's South Maui cousins Big Beach and Little Beach, Black Sand Beach (not to be confused with Black Sand Beach at Wai‘anapanapa State Park near Hana) generally offers a place to get away from the crowds. Located on the other side of Pu'u Ola'i, (the conical shaped cinder cone south of Makena) from Big Beach, Black Sand Beach is a salt and pepper mixture of lava, shells and sand. The last time we were there the beach had a somewhat unkept appearance with lots of cigarette butts and other trash about.

Because of jagged lava and coral just off the beach, entry into the water is difficult. There's a lava shelf on the left side of the beach that's the best place to enter the water. The snorkeling is usually good to the left side along Pu'u Ola'i. We've seen quite a few turtles here.

To find the beach drive past Makena towards Big Beach. Just before you reach Pu'u Ola"i look for a dirt road leading towards the beach. There's a gate and a Makena State park sign at the entrance to the road. The road is rough, but usually passable and leads to a dirt parking area at the beach that has enough room for a few cars.
Amenities:

• 10 parking spaces
• No other facilities

D. T. Fleming Beach Park

Located in West Maui on Honoapiilani Highway just past the Ritz-Carlton. This is one of our favorite beaches on Maui.

Named America's Best Beach in 2006, this beautiful white sand beach offers plenty of room for sunbathing. Swimming is great throughout the year, though in the winter months the surf can be a bit high. Rip currents can occur at any time so check the sign at the lifeguard station and obey posted flags. Behind the beach are plenty of shade trees, a grassy area and picnic facilities.
Amenities

• LIFEGUARD on duty
• PICNIC AREAS: Twelve picnic tables and six barbecue grills
• PARKING: Two parking areas: (1) At the park with 22 spaces (2) Across Honoapiilani Road with 80 spaces
• PUBLIC RESTROOMS: One comfort station and restrooms inside the lifeguard station
• WATER: One outdoor shower and water taps at the comfort station
• ADA ACCESSIBILITY: One wheelchair ramp leading down to the beach. Restrooms are ADA accessible

Picture credit and facilities list : Maui County Parks

Kaanapali Beach

Ka'anapali Beach runs from Black Rock in the north, more than a mile south to Canoe Beach. Luxury resort hotels line the entire beach. If you're thinking high end beach vacation, this is the place. Cabanas and lounges line the entire strip of sand. Attendants scurry about to satisfy the needs of hotel guests. Ka'anapali is about the money, you'll need it to stay here.

But like nearly all beaches in Hawaii, Ka'anapali is open to the public. The cabanas and lounges belong to the hotels, but the beach belongs to everyone, and Ka'anapali is one of the best beaches you'll find anywhere on Maui.

All sorts of activities are available here. Diving, snorkeling, parasailing, sailing, and more are all available here, for a price. Sun worshiping, swimming, frolicking in the gentle waves and people watching are all free. Bring your snorkel gear and enjoy the views at Black Rock, one of the best snorkel locations on Maui.

A concrete path runs the length of the beach, from the Sheraton at Black Rock in the north to the Hyatt at the southern end. A sunset stroll along it can be unforgettable.

Several poorly marked public access parking areas are located along Ka'anapali Parkway and connecting streets. There's about 125 spaces in all, get there early. Pay parking is available at the parking garage at Whaler's Village.

Find this and other beaches on our Maui Beach Map

Blue Hawaiian Helicopters provides this aerial view of Ka'anipali Beach

Each winter thousands of Humpback whales make the journey from Alaska to Hawaii to mate and calve. Along with this influx of whales comes an even larger migration of human visitors to watch the whales.

We include ourselves in that throng and try to schedule a trip to Maui each year during whale watching season. The whales begin arriving in November, numbers peak in February and March and by May they're gone.

So, what's so interesting about whale watching anyway? Take a look at the video clip we've posted below and see for yourself. We shot the video in mid-January. It shows a baby humpback breaching again and again. It's sort of like junior is saying, "mom, look what I can do!" Ah, it never gets old.

Wind Powers Maui to Energy Savings

Kaheawa Wind Power, located on the slopes above Ma'alaea, generated enough energy to power 11,000 Maui homes last year. UPC Wind, a co-owner of the facility, said more than 125,000 mega-watt hours of electricity was generated during 2007, its first full year in operation. This is about 10% of Maui's total energy usage. The project consists of 20 General Electric 1.5 megawatt wind turbines installed along a ridgeline above Ma'alaea. The trade winds funnel through this area almost constantly making it an ideal place to generate wind power.

Here's a few interesting facts listed by Kaheawa Wind Power about their first full year of operation:

Generating an equivalent amount of electric energy from a traditional fossil fuel burning facility would have required over 236,000 barrels of oil. The Maui Electric Company imports more than 1.6 million barrels of petroleum-based fuels every year.

In 2007, this renewable source of energy generation avoided the release of over 91,000 tons of CO2. The amount of CO2 avoided is equivalent to the emissions of nearly 16,000 cars or more than 11,400 SUVs.

In addition to the clean energy produced by Kaheawa Wind Power and associated environmental benefits, the wind farm has played a major role in stabilizing and reducing the cost of energy on Maui.

Since it achieved commercial operations, the project has sold all of its output to Maui Electric Company at rates that will save the utility over $4 million annually as compared to current avoided cost contracts.

UPC Wind has proposed expanding the wind farm by adding another 21 turbines, more than doubling it's capacity. However, Maui Electric Company has selected another project proposed by Shell Wind, which would be located on the East side of the island.

Kaheawa Wind Power's Website

Photo Credit: Kaheawa Wind Power

Maui Dive Sites - The St. Anthony

The St. Anthony is a 65' Louisiana shrimp boat that's now part of an artificial reef off Wailea. Intentionally sunk in 70 feet of water in 1997, the St. Anthony is now a popular South Maui dive site.

The St. Anthony made it's way to Hawaii after the collapse of the shrimping industry to become a long line fisher. She eventually ended up as a derelict in Honolulu. Scheduled to be sunk in deep water, the boat was "rescued" by a group of Maui residents interested in making her part of the reef. After being made environmentally and diver friendly, she was sunk next to the existing tire and cement artificial reef.

Today the reef is home to over 50 species of fish. The addition of the St. Anthony has drawn many green sea turtles to the reef. The turtles are the main attraction for diving the wreck. They wedge themselves all over the wreck and make for great photo opportunities.

If you're diving South Maui you'll find the St. Anthony an interesting dive site. It and the Carthaginian II, which was sunk off Lahaina in 2005, are the only two wreck dives on Maui. We recommend it.

Photo credits: doctorkb at flicker. St. Anthony | Turtle

Molokini Snorkel - Must Do or Overrated?

The travel brochures should read, "Snorkel Molokini with hundreds of people you'll never see again!" It's true, each morning upwards of 12 boats and 600 to 800 snorkelers visit the crater at any one time.

According to Jim Coon the president of the "Ocean Tourism Coalition" and co-owner of Trilogy Excursions there are 42 commercial permits for tour operators to take approximately 1,000 visitors to Molokini each day," almost all in the morning.

So, each morning the tour boats head out of harbors in Ma'alaea and Kihei towards Molokini. Each guest has paid upwards of $100 to visit this Marine Reserve and often for a follow on destination. The morning tours are usually about 5 hours in length.

They've been promised what one site calls, "one of the most popular and exotic snorkel and diving sites in the entire world" and about which another says, "Without question, the Molokini crater tops the list of the world's best destinations for snorkeling and scuba diving.

According to some Maui locals I've talked to, the crater's reef is dying and the fish count is dwindling. At this point it's important to make a distinction between the inside of the crater and the outside. Nearly all tour boats anchor inside the crater and this is the area most affected. By all accounts the diving on the outside wall remains spectacular.

It's been a few years since I've made the trip, so I decided to have another look. Not wanting to part with $100, I chose an afternoon trip for $37. (A word of caution here, most afternoon Molokini trips go elsewhere because of the winds. I waited for a calm day and then asked the crew in advance where we would be going.)

On the way over we were offered a wet suit top rental for $10. My advice is to take it and you'll be able to spend more time in the water snorkeling. We were also offered SNUBA (like SCUBA, but you're fed air from the surface by a hose) for $60. Since I'm a certified diver I passed on this, but many would find it a great experience.

My Impression of Molokini Crater. During my afternoon visit there was only one other boat anchored in the crater, so crowds were not a problem. My impression was that the reef looked tired. The colors were muted and there weren't that many fish. I spent a full hour in the water exploring back and forth along the reef and floating over some of the deeper areas. Other than a few angel fish and a needle fish there wasn't much to see.

To be fair, I've talked to people who've seen turtles, rays and sharks in the crater recently, so perhaps I was just there at a bad time. But I also have to agree with those who feel the crater is suffering from overuse. You just can't have nearly a 1000 people a day visiting a site and not affect it.

Must See or Overrated? Molokini crater is overrated as a snorkel location, but surprisingly, looking at the experience as a whole, the morning Molokini trips are a must do, at least once anyway. The trips are packaged for your enjoyment and safety and are well worth the $100 cost. Five hours on and in the water, seeing things you've probably never seen before, and a meal included, can be unforgettable.

Each boat offers a different experience. In an upcoming article we'll help you pick the one best for you.

Have you been to Molokini? Why not tell us about your experience?

West Maui - Driving Over the Top

Forget the road to Hana, if you want to spice up your Maui driving experience try driving around the "top" of Maui on the Kahekeli Highway. What do we mean by spice it up? We're talking about that feeling you get as you wind your way along a VERY narrow one lane road that's carved into the side of a cliff hoping that no one is coming the other way feeling. If that's not for you, then drive to Hana, there's more to see and you can buy a "I survived the Hana Highway" tee-shirt when it's over.

Here's a few cautions before driving over the top.

• First, check your rental car contract. Some companies prohibit driving sections of this road.
• Second, there really are sections of very narrow road carved into the side of a cliff. If you meet another car here the uphill vehicle is expected to back-up to a wider spot in the road. (Backing up on the side of a cliff not for you? Don't go!)
• Third, there are no services and no cell phone coverage along most of the route. Check your fuel before going.
• Lastly, leave whatever valuables you can't carry with you back at the hotel. Auto break-ins are common on Maui and this is a very isolated area. Our practice is to leave the windows down and the doors unlocked, that way the thief doesn't have to break the window to check the trunk.

Let's get started. We're going to drive from Kapalua towards Wailuku "clockwise" around the top of Maui. We've driven it both ways and believe me it feels better to be on the "inside" lane on those tight cliff-side corners.

Driving west on hwy 30 our first stop, just after the 32 mile marker, is Mokulea Bay, better know as Slaughter House Beach. There's a paved parking area here and concrete steps leading down towards the beach. Driving a bit further to just before the 33 mile marker you'll find another paved parking area and a trail leading to Honolua Bay, a marine preserve. Continue around the corner and up the hill and you'll see a wide dirt road to the left. Down this well traveled road you'll find a great view of Honolua Bay and if the surfs up lots of surfers on the waves below.

Thanks to reader John Carty for pointing out Honolua Bay is being loved to death. See http://www.savehonolua.org/ for more information.

Next is Windmills (Punalau) Beach, 6/10's of a mile past the mile 34 marker. There's a dirt road leading down to the beach. We're glad we chose to park the car at the top and walk down. This is a beautiful sand beach with many trees for shade. The beach is blanked with coral that's washed ashore. There's also plenty of evidence of partying here, so our suggestion is to avoid it on weekends.

Now the real fun begins. You've got about 25 miles of curves and great views ahead of you. A small side point here. While checking out one of these great views a couple of local gentlemen, driving an old Buick with a flat front tire, stopped and inquired if we might be interested in purchasing some of Maui's "other" cash crop. When we declined they happily drove off completly unconcerned with the flat tire.

Which brings us to Honokohau, a small village past mile marker 36. There's a road leading off back into the valley here, but after the look we got from a local chap, we decide to bypass it. Do, however, check out the small beach here, just past the bridge. It's a great photo spot.

At about mile 38.4 you'll see a dirt parking area on the left. A trail starts here and leads about a 1/4 mile down to the Nakalele Blowhole. Here if the ocean's in the right mood you'll see jets of water shooting 30 feet or more into the air from the blowhole. If you don't want to hike down there's some great view's from the bluff above.

The Bellstone, an interesting curiosity, can be found at mile 42.7 on the mountain side of the road. Strike it with another stone and it's supposed to make a metallic sounding clang. (Advice is to strike the mountain side of the stone, if it doesn't clang try another spot.) From the marks on the Bellstone it appears a lot of places have been tried.

Just past the Bellstone you'll find a dirt parking area ocean side and a path leading down to "Olivine Pools" along the shoreline. Some consider them a great place for a swim before getting to the really challenging part of the drive. As always when near the ocean use extreme caution.

The next mile marker you see will be 16. This is because state hwy 30 ends and a county road that will become hwy 340 in a few miles begins here. Now the fun really begins! As the road narrows watch for a little yellow school bus parked oceanside called "Da Smoothie Bus." Pull over here and you'll get a great view of Kahakuloa Town. Watch the traffic comming up the hill towards you, when it looks clear drive on down to the town. The first bad section of road is behind you.

As you drive into the village you'll see a sign for "Lorraine Shave Ice - Banana Bread, Drive to Rear." Drive on back. Ask to try some of her "wood chips." Up the street is "Julia's Best Banana Bread on the Planet." We bought some of her's and some of Lorraine's and did our own taste test. On your way up the hill leaving town there's a turnout with a great view of the village.

When you reach the top of the hill you're in cattle country. Kahakuloa Head and it's sister peak called Pu'u Kahuli-'anapa dominate the view towards the ocean. The road widens and you breath a sigh of relief, you've made it! Not quite brah! A few more miles of narrow winding road are still ahead of you. Just past mile marker 11 is the hairpin turn of all hairpin turns.

By the time you reach Waihee Golf Course you can breath a sigh of relief, you've made it! As you pull into Wailuku there's just one more test ahead of you. The last block of this street is one way, going the other way. We only noticed it because of the arrows on the roadway. A couple of "Do Not Enter" signs would be great here.

And finally here's six minutes of video someone shot as they navigated the road on a motorcycle.

Kahakuloa Head (The Tall Lord)

Kahakuloa Head and it's sister Pu'u Kahuli'anapa dominate West Maui's rugged northern shore. Located near mile 14 on hwy 340 from Wailuku, Kahokuloa Head is 636 feet tall.

Part of the hill is called Kahekili's Leap after an 18th century Maui king named Kahekili. Legend has it that he would climb 200 feet up to the leap and dive into the ocean before breakfast.

There's a trail here, between and it's sister peak from which great views of the head standing above can be found. There are also trails to the top of both hills. The one going up Kahakuloa Head is treacherous near the top. Don't try it unless you know what you're doing.

By the way, to give some prespective as to where Kahakuloa Head is located, as you're driving down the Haleakala Highway towards Kahului you can see it on the right side of West Maui's shore.

Kahakuloa Town - A Friendly Place

Kahakuloa Town is a small isolated community on West Maui's rugged north shore. About 100 people live in this friendly little community. You'll find several road side stands here including the Panini Pua Kea fruit stand, Ululani by the Bay, Lorraine's and Julie's Best Banana Bread on the Planet. You won't find any other services.

We stopped at Lorraine's (the sign says "drive to the back, so we did") and found her to be a wonderfully friendly person. We were there on New Years Day, so I asked, "why are you open today?" She said, "Because I knew you were coming." Be sure and ask to sample her "wood chips." We also stopped at Julie's and found the young lady running the stand that day to be just as pleasant.

Since Julie claims to sell "the best banana bread on the planet" we decided to do a taste test. We bought banana bread from both. Lorraine's loaf ($3.00) is a bit smaller than Julie's ($5.00). Lorraine's bread is light in color, a bit dry, and was good, but seemed a lot like any other banana bread we've eaten. Julie's is dark in color, much more moist and has a wonderful flavor. We think she adds molasses to the recipe. Julie wins. We don't know about being the best on the planet, but it was the best in Kahakuloa. Now, what to do with the rest of this banana bread? :)

Kahakuloa Town is a difficult place to get to. The road is narrow and winding coming from either direction. So, if you come for a visit, take it slow. Coming from either direction into the village you'll find great views from the road above.

West Maui's "Olivine Pools"

Finding a place to enjoy a dip in the ocean along West Maui's rough northern shore can be difficult. One such place is the natural lava pools dubbed "Olivine Pools" by a popular Maui guide book. You'll find them near mile 42.8 on hwy 30 past Kapalua. If you're coming from the Wailuku side they're just past the mile 16 marker. (This is where hwy 30 from Kapalua meets hwy 340 from Wailuka, so the markers change.)

If you're driving around the top of Maui this is a great place to stop and take a dip. The experience is almost surreal. Most Maui visitors will never experience sitting in these calm pools, with waves breaking all around and Maui's volcanic past recorded in the lava cliffs before them.

Look for a dirt parking lot on the ocean side of the road. Since these pools were popularized in Maui Revealed you'll find cars parked here most of the time. The pools are about a 1/4 mile off the road and about 200 feet down.

Just follow the path towards the ocean. You'll soon see the lava finger containing the pools jutting into the sea. There's a bit of scrambling down the loose dirt and lava paths, so be careful.

Once you get to the pools, remember the lava is sharp and the ocean can be unpredictable, so use caution if you decide to take a dip. If the surfs high, stay out! We've heard of people getting tossed around and injured in the pools by waves breaking over them.

You'll find "Olivine Pools" and many other interesting things to see and do on our Maui Travel Map.

Have you ever been to the pools? Why not let us know what you thought of them?

The Bellstone

The Bellstone, an interesting curiosity, can be found at mile 42.7 on on hwy 30 past Kapalua. It's on the mountain side of the road. Drive past it to the parking area on the ocean side and walk back. By the way this is the parking area for a great walk down to some natural lava pools along the ocean.

The story goes that if you strike it in the right spot with another stone it will clang like a bell. The advice we've read is to strike the mountain side of the stone hard with another stone, if it doesn't clang try another spot. Judging from the marks on the Bellstone it appears a lot of places have been tried.

We decided not to scar it any further and will leave it to someone else to test it's qualities.

Nakalele Blowhole

Nakalele Point is the northern most place on Maui. You'll find the point, along with it's famous blowhole at about mile 38.5 on hwy 30 past Kapalua. There's a dirt parking area and you'll see several trails leading off towards the ocean.

The hike to the blowhole is about a 1/4 mile long and decends 200 feet down to the ocean. We suggest you first walk to one of the overlooks and see if the blowhole is blowing. You can get some good pictures from there if you don't feel like walking down. The trail down involves some scrambling over loose dirt and rock, so be careful.

The Nakalele Blowhole was formed after the ocean eroded away the underlying material and left the harder lava shelf protruding over the ocean. After the hole formed, wave action causes water to shoot through and into the air. When the tide is high and the surf is pounding, the blowhole can shoot 30 or more feet into the air. At other times not much happens at all.

It's really a great show, but a word of caution. It may seem tempting to get as close as you can to the blowhole for that great photo, but stay back! People have been killed when they get pulled into the hole by the retreating water.

Here's a short video of the blowhole on a good day. By the way these folks are probably a little to close to the action.

Honokohau Bay

The village of Honokohau is located along the rugged north shore of West Maui. This close-knit community stretches for more than a mile into the Honokohau Valley. They don't seem to like visitors back there. The look we got from a local man as we slowed at the road leading back into the valley plainly said "keep going" and we did.

To see Honokohau Village take a look at the map below, zoom in around the icon and choose "satellite." You'll get a nice aerial view of the village.

Next to the Bridge across Honokohau Stream is a parking area that gives access to the rocky beach along the bay. Honokohau Bay is considered a good spot for surfing and kayaking. We also found it a great spot to stand and watch the fury of the winter seas as they pound the shore. Be sure to heed the private property signs as you head down to the beach.

There's also an interesting old pickup at one end of the bridge. It looks like it used to be a produce stand. If anyone knows it's story we'd love to hear it.

Have you been to Honokohau Village? Do you live there? Why not tell us about it?"

Windmills Beach

Windmills Beach or Punalau Beach is the last sandy beach you'll find as you drive past Kapalua on hwy 30. Found near mile 34.6, the beach is located down a rough dirt road. Our suggestion is to park your car at the top of the road and walk down.

You'll find about 150 yards of beach here. It's white sand with a mixture of black, covered with coral and wood that's washed up on the beach. Behind the beach is a grove of trees that would make a good spot to camp. Camping we understand is not legal, but tolerated.

It's a good spot for surfing in the winter. The January day we were there the surf was too rough for swimming.

Windmills is considered a "local" beach. There's ample evidence of partying here. Our suggestion is to visit Windmills Beach on a weekday during the day and leave it to the locals on evenings and weekends.

What you'll Find:

• There are no services here
• Be cautious of the high surf during winter months
• No sun until mid morning

Honolua Bay

Honolua is a small bay located near mile 33 on hwy 30 past Kapalua. There's no sandy beach here, so it's not a place to come and sun. What you will find is a great place for snorkeling and diving.

As part of the Honolua - Mokuleia Marine Life Conservation District the bay is teeming with sealife. During summer months, when the swell is not comming in from the north, snorkelers and divers can enjoy views that rival and surpass Molokini. During winter months, when the waves are high, the water clouds up and it's often not safe swim or dive here. The picture above was taken in January and you can see the silt in the water after a rain.

When the surf is high Honolua turns itself into a surfers paradise. If you'd like to watch the action drive past Honolua Bay and up the hill. Near the top of the hill you'll find a wide dirt road turning off to the left. Follow it down to a parking area from where you can watch the surfers do their thing.

Directions: Past Kapalua on hwy 30 and just before the 33 mile marker you'll find a wide spot on the left that's paved. Park here. (If you see stairs, drive on, your at Slaughterhouse) A footpath leads down to the beach.

What You'll Find:

• No sand beach
• No lifeguard
• Great diving and snorkeling when the surfs not up.
• No taking of marine life by any means.

View Honolua Bay in a larger map

Thanks to reader John Carty for pointing out below that Honolua Bay is being loved to death. See http://www.savehonolua.org/ for more information.